Connor's Tomahawk, Assassin's Creed 3
Originally posted on the RPF.
I really like the design of the
Assassins in the Assassin’s Creed games. They all share common design features
that tie to the central assassin/eagle/hunter imagery: the beaked hood, the red
tabard, the talon-like hidden blade, whites, reds and the stylised “A” that
looks like the profile of the hooded assassin. These features are cleverly
blended into period-appropriate styles for each assassin, from Altair’s monk
robes to Connor’s mix of colonist and Native American clothing. Connor’s
tomahawk exemplifies this design approach, taking a traditional weapon and
adding the trademark Assassins’ red and “A” logo for the axe head.
When I started working on my
Skyrim War Axe, I decided that I’d need some way of testing molding and cold
casting methods without wasting lots of materials. Rather than simply molding
and casting some scrap plastic, I figured that Connor’s Tomahawk would be small
enough to test these techniques, and I ended up working on two projects at the
same time!
The axe head was made in three
pieces, the blade, “block” and “spike” and were designed to slot together. The
basic shape of each piece was built out of styrene, with the blade and the
bevels on the spike sculpted using Apoxie Sculpt. Once the Apoxie cured, I
spent some time sanding the blade to achieve a concave slope and to define the
lines.
Each piece of the axe head was
molded separately (using Smooth On Mold Max 40) and cold cast with aluminium
powder (using Smooth On Smooth-Cast 300). The blade mold caused some problems
when casting, as the resin ran down the mold walls and left streaks in the
aluminium powder I had dusted into the mold. I eventually resolved this by
pouring resin into half of the open mold, slowly and at a shallow angle so it
didn’t lift the powder, then quickly sealing the mold and pouring the second
half on top of the resin already inside.
The axe haft was cut from a 2’x4’
and shaped with my Dremel and palm sander. It took a lot of trial and error to get
the colour of the wood right, as every varnish I applied was either the wrong
shade or didn’t cure properly. I eventually got a finish I was happy with, and
gave the haft a few coats of polyurethane, sanding with fine grit sandpaper in-between
coats. When fully cured, I drew the diamond insignia on a piece of masking tape
which I used as a stencil to cut the shape into the wood, being careful to only
remove the outer stained layer and expose the raw wood underneath. I gave the
whole haft a final coat of polyurethane to seal it.
The brown leather grip was cut
from a vegetable tanned hide, while the red wrap was a length of leather lace.
Both were dyed, soaked and stretched around the haft, then glued in place, with
brass pins fitted along the grip. I sourced some glass beads that matched those
in renders of the axe, and trimmed and shaped a feather found in the garden.
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